Antwerp, Belgium: the perfect break

Antwerp's artistic treasures offer rich reward to the discerning weekender

It may be 350 years since Antwerp's political and economic heyday, but it was some heyday. Between 1500 and 1650, the Flemish city was one of the most powerful and influential trading centres in the world, dominating the lucrative pepper, silver and textiles markets (the diamonds came later).

Much of the vast wealth generated – some historians call it the richest city in Europe – was poured into the arts. The squares were beautified, the churches and cathedral embellished, and a thriving artistic community grew up on the back of lavish commissions for portraits and religious art. Among the painters born, trained or drawn here were Gossaert, the subject of a major retrospective about to open at the National Gallery in London, Frans Hals, Teniers, Jordaens, Brueghel, Rubens and Van Dyke.

Antwerp remains one of the most culturally fascinating and under-appreciated cities in Europe, and ideally suited to a short break. The cuisine is outstanding, its designer shops enjoy international standing, and the beer isn't bad either.

CityJet (www.cityjet.com), which flies from Manchester twice a day (returns from £128) and London City Airport five times a week (returns from £138). Or travel via Brussels on Eurostar (www.eurostar.co.uk), changing trains at Brussels; returns from £80, total journey time from London – two hours 53 minutes. You will have the bonus of arriving at Central Station, one of the most spectacular railway buildings anywhere.

Stay at…

The Hotels Les Nuits, the newest top-end hotel in town, which has been decked out by the exclusive Flemish designer shop Flamant. The 24 rooms have a clean-cut, contemporary feel; from about 198 euros a night for a double. Mid-range chain hotels in good locations include the Park Plaza Hotel in the Diamond district, and the nearby Radisson Blue. Another new addition is the budget Hotel Etap Antwerp Port. Rooms start at only 39 euros, but the hotel is situated in the Port area, a couple of miles north of the centre. Pls contact us for room bookings.

Spend the morning…

Getting your bearings by heading for the splendid Grote Markt, the main square, where the grand city hall was rebuilt in the 1560s. Here, merchants vied for prestige by constructing ever-higher guild houses with spectacular gables, and façades of more glass than stone. After all that Renaissance extravagance, head for the massive, seven-aisle Gothic cathedral, 170 years in the making. Looted over the centuries by the Spanish and the French, the four great altarpieces painted by Rubens survived and are now on display.

End the morning in the Rubenshuis (Wapper 9, www.rubenshuis.be), the house that Rubens bought in 1610 and rebuilt using the latest ideas from his stay in Rome. By this time he was probably the most famous, and certainly one of the richest artists in Europe. There is an excellent collection of his work and a stunning box garden.

Have lunch at…

Brasserie Appelmans (Papenstraatje 1; 0032 3 226 20 22; www.brasserieappelmans.be), by the cathedral. Part of the building, once a wine cellar for the canons, dates back to the 12th century. Now it serves unpretentious cooking such as Thai-curried scampi (14.90 euros), beef carpaccio (13.50 euros) and salads from 17.50 euros. Open all day.

Spend the afternoon…

Enjoying the rest of the city. The Museum Mayer van den Bergh (Lange Gasthuisstraat 19, www.mayervandenbergh.be) is a stunning collection of art from the northern Renaissance, including paintings by Brueghel and Grossaert. Nearby is the excellent Museum Plantin-Moretus (Vrijdagmarkt 22, 0032 3 221 14 50, www.museumplantinmoretus.be) which has survived since the mid 16th-century. It was one of the earliest printing houses, and has an excellent collection of books, prints, maps, presses and paintings – including work by one of its customers and collaborators, Rubens.

The Nationalestraat is the centre of Antwerp's much-vaunted fashion and designer scene, while the Diamond district is near the Central Station. If you are thinking of spending a lot of money, take expert advice before you go.

Have dinner at…

The stylish, contemporary Flamant Dining (Lange Gasthuisstraat 12, 0032 3 227 74 41; www.flamantdining.be), for modern French-style cooking. Typical main courses might be magret de canard with sweet chilli (22.50 euros), or lamb filet with black olives and lemon (24 euros). A little more traditional, and a local favourite, is Neuze Neuze (Wijngaardstraat 19, 0032 3 232 27 97; www.neuzeneuze.be), where a risotto of pork with black truffle and paprika will set you back 24.50 euros, and poached cod with Hollandaise sauce is 28 euros. For those on a tight budget, one of the best chip shops (fritkots) is Frittur No1, near the Grote Markt.

Stay up late at…

De Vagant (Reyndersstraat 25), to try jenever, the traditional Flemish gin. Trendy bars and clubs include Vertigo (Draakplaats 3, www.cafevertigo.be) in the Berchem district, with occasional live music; and Lux (www.luxantwerp.com) in Het Eilandje, the newly regenerated docklands.

Before you go…

Visit the Jan Gossaert's Renaissance exhibition at the National Gallery (February 23-May 30, £10, www.nationalgallery.org.uk). Gossaert, who trained and painted in Antwerp in the 1500s was one of the great artists at the high point of the city's economic success. His portraits – in particular, of sitters draped in furs, satins and brocades – give a tangible sense of the luxury of the times.

More information…

Write to us at info@ultimatetourism.com